9/28/2013 Halifax

Saturday, September 28

Woke to sunshine – yeah – but it had gotten quite cold last night – 40’s.  Had some good hot oatmeal to start the day, and headed for Halifax.  Quite a large city with a beautiful waterfront area.

We fortuitously parked near a visitor’s center to find that it was free parking today – apparently a rare thing in Halifax!  Greg is getting good at finding spots he can back into and have the bikes dangle over lawn or rocks or whatever so that we don’t protrude too far into traffic.

We were quite near the Maritime Museum, so decided to go there first.  Very nice building dedicated to shipbuilding, ships, military history, maritime history. Beautiful models of early sailboats, schooners and other vessels. Canada has the longest coastline of any country and has over 2000 wrecks just in Nova Scotia waters, many of which were documented here.  Of course the major “wreck” was the Titanic for which there is an extensive exhibit of history, artifacts and personal stories. Boats from Halifax joined in rescue efforts and most of the deceased were brought here for identification and processing.  About 150 are buried here.

The other major event covered was an explosion which killed over 2000 people and destroyed a portion of the city in the early 1900's.  A fully loaded munitions boat was rammed by a Norwegian freighter, caught fire and exploded.   Interestingly, Halifax still sends Boston a huge Christmas tree each year as a token of thanks for all the help Massachusetts gave in re-building and aid.

Bell which used to toll hours to keep time at the Halifax port.

 Halifax has a beautiful boardwalk along Water Street, which must be the most often-used street name in Nova Scotia.  We walked it to reach the Seafarer’s Farmers Market, a huge building (reminds us of Fanueil Hall (sp?) in Boston.  Fruits and vegetables, fish, flowers, baked goods, and musicians interspersed with crafts and specialty items.  Very busy but interesting.

FUN  along the boardwalk

Seafarer's farmer's market

Lots of people out enjoying the day

 We headed back to the Trek,  and wound our way south towards Peggy’s Cove. 20 miles between towns can easily double as you wind in and out around coves, guts(!) inlets and harbors. On this sunny day the water couldn’t be more blue!  Lots of small fishing villages but most seem more well kept.

We stopped at the memorial to those lost in Swissair Flight 111,
which crashed offshore in 1998.  This was at a "look off" near Peggy's Cove.

Picturesque Peggy’s Cove was swarming with people, including many tour buses! 

We were told that the cruise ships that dock in Halifax all send buses here.  We took a quick look and decided to come back later in the day, as one shop keeper told us the crowds die down later.  We continued along the coast and while the small fishing villages continued, but behind them were some beautiful large homes and sleek sailboats joined the fishing boats. 

 Cormornants are everywhere, diving, fishing and preening to dry in the sun.

Cormorants taking flight

cormorant drying on a buoy

A few hours later we went back to Peggy’s Cove, and as sunset approached the tour buses finally left.  We clambered around on the rocks and enjoyed the spectacular sunset with a modest crowd. 

Sunset at Peggy's Cove Lighthouse

Decided to boondock at the Visitor’s Center. Huge lot and we are the only ones here tonight.  Bonus is the availability of wi-fi!  Ham and yams and salad for dinner – tomorrow I’ve got to have some seafood!