Sunday, March 29
68 degrees this morning as we enjoy the breakfast bar at the Hampton Inn. Nice selection, with eggs and sausage and make-your-own waffles. Various fruits, yogurts, cereal, muffins, etc. Coffee and juices.
We are going to Estero Llano Grande State Park today. One write-up had said if you are going to one place, make it this one. (There are probably five or six other possibilities that are part of the World Birding Center.) Estero Llano Grande is a 200 acre refuge with a mix of woodland and thorn scrub, a few shallow lakes which still hold water and the Rio Grande on one border. At the Visitor's Center we learn that there is a ranger-led walk at 8:30, so we wander around for a bit and see javelina and rabbits, and then join John for a personal tour (no one else showed up!) We borrow some binoculars and are off. John is able to point out many birds that we would probably have missed. No pictures through the binoculars, though.
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| young spoonbill |
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| white-winged dove |
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| tufted titmouse |
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| green jay |
The park opened 20 years ago and John has been here since the beginning, helping to plant trees, build boardwalks, etc. This was his "retirement" job after he was a computer programmer, and he is getting ready to retire again. Quite knowledgeable and pleasant. There is water now, and a local well, but by August, he says, some areas will be dry. Amazingly we see not one mosquito! John says he never wears insect repellant and isn't bothered... maybe the large numbers of birds eat them all!
Butterflies are prolific in November and December, only a few now. There are some hummingbird feeders but John says they are busy mating and raising babies now, so don't come to the feeders as often. They collect protein-rich bugs instead. We see only one today.
While sitting in the parking lot, getting ready to leave, Greg notices an older man who is loading a three-wheeled bike into the back of a pickup truck. Greg goes to ask if he can give him a hand, but the man declines. But a few minutes later he comes to the Trek and thanks Greg for offering. He also photographs birds and apparently has been doing this for some time. He explains his system for loading his bike and talks a bit about the effects of the drought on this park and others. Somehow he gets on the subject of his health - blood pressure, atrial fib, etc. We're in no hurry, so lend an ear.
We leave shortly after 11:00, for the Gelman Stained Glass Museum in nearby San Juan.
This is an amazing place. The building resembles a Gothic church, and was constructed beginning 2015 by Dr. Lawrence Gelman. He used parts from churches that had been razed, mostly in the Northeast US. Indeed, that is where a large portion of the 174 stained glass windows have come from as well. Many well known stained glass manufacturers are represented, though Tiffany is the only one we recognized.
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| All are rear-lit with LED lights to resemble sunlight. |
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| There are some statues and altars as well. |
Just across the Virgen De San Juan Blvd, is beautiful San Juan Basilica, officially Basilica Of Our Lady of San Juan del Valle National Shrine. I really wish we had been able to go inside but as this is Palm Sunday, the place was jam packed. Parking? Greg let me out to explore and found a place to wait because there was no parking available. There are frescoes on the building which we got a glimpse of when driving by, and supposedly the oldest crucifix in North America over the main altar.
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| View from the rear |
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| There were people filling bottles from the holy water fountain. |
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| main rear doors |
The name is from a miracle which happened in Mexico back in 1623, when a child was reportedly brought back to life when exposed to a statue of the Virgin Mary. A reproduction of the original statue is in this basilica and it is a major site of pilgrimage and healing. Who knew?? Beth walked around the grounds and attempted to enter, but there were people packed inside right to the door. There was a Mass going on in Spanish, with the words projected on a large screen. People outside are distributing palms and some are selling quite elaborate woven palm items.
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| Port Isabella Lighthouse from previous trip |
We decide to leave the Valley and head toward South Padre Island where we plan to boondock on the beach again. We reach the town of Port Isabella, home of a lighthouse, Shipwreck/pirate museum (which we enjoyed once)and lots of tourist stuff. From there we take the Causeway, which is the only access to South Padre Island. This is even more touristy, having lovely beaches. It is filled with hotels, restaurants, condos, surf shops, souvenirs, etc. Popular with Spring Breakers as there are flags welcoming various colleges. We stayed here once long ago and it is much more built up now. Guided fishing trips, Dolphin Watch Boat rides, Sunset Rides, etc. etc. etc.
The South Padre Birding and Nature Center has been recommended, so we head there. It is a non-profit with focus on conservation. It has alligators and tortoises (rescues) that can be fed near the building, but there are over 3,300 feet of boardwalks that lead away to more isolated areas. Some water birds out and about.
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| This laughing gull really wanted his photo taken. |
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| white ibis |
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| little blue heron |
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| "Big Padre" gator IS big. |
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| Looking back at main building w/observation tower. |
Some fish, oysters and small crabs visible in the shallows.
After this we go to check out Andy Bowie Park Campground, but find lots of construction and the entrance is blocked. So we continue north, out of the congestion, to occasional county parks where we've read you can overnight. We try the last one and the man at the entrance confirms that we can camp there. But once we reach the beach it is very very busy and not a lot of space between parking and the water. The sand is also softer and deeper here and we don't feel comfortable with the heavy Trek. So Greg does about a 10 point turn and we leave. Looks like we'll resort to our default choice, a Walmart back in Port Isabella. The manager confirms that we can stay, and we settle in. Nice breeze keeps things comfortable and the area seems secure with several other businesses not far away. We pull together some dinner and relax. Mostly quiet night once the store closes.
