Sunday, September 22
Nice sunny morning, 60 degrees already at 7:30 (Atlantic
time) . Good morning light. We saw a deer and a porcupine on the road back to
town and headed for The Fundy Trail.
Nice trails, one for cars, one for bikers and hikers, that run along the
Bay. Very wooded and mountainous with
12-18 % grades at times!
Interesting “cable stairs” at Fuller Falls. Some nice views and trails would be good for
hiking – too many hills for us Flatlander bikers.
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| Fuller Falls, Fundy Trail |
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| Coast along Fundy Trail |
We went back through
Fundy National Park and stopped at Alma again, this time for take-out
scallops! Moving through farmland now
and many of the round bales of hay are shrink-wrapped. Lots of corn and
pumpkins. Nearly every house has huge stacks
of firewood, either neatly stacked or dumped in a pile. Entered Nova Scotia
about 2:30 and headed to Fossil Cliffs in Joggins, but due to bad timing the
Fossil Center was closing (4:00) and the tides were high, so we couldn’t walk
the beach.
Tiny back road with mostly trees, till we reached Advocate
Harbor. We went out a 5km gravel road to
yet another lighthouse, Cape D’Or.
Decided it was a good
place to camp so after a good hike we settled in. Used the Trek shower and shortly after that, it began to rain and we
discovered what the light house fog horn sounds like. On and off all night. I suppose it is true that one can get used to
anything!
Monday, September 23
Sunny and 55 degrees this morning. Misty day with some wind makes it seem
colder. We headed up the coast and
stopped at Five Islands for a peak at their lighthouse at a small park where we
had breakfast. Only person out and about
was a woman who was there to check the clams – apparently the coast had been
closed because of storms and such and the fishermen were anxious to have it
re-opened based on her findings.
We continue to see lovely white churches with varying
heights of spires in nearly every little town.
Baptist, Presbyterian, United, Anglican, Catholic, etc
Passed a strawberry farm where berries (last of the season?)
were being picked. None for sale, though
L.
We decided to take 104 and head for Cape Breton. Stopped in Pictou on the
Northumberland Coast but the Northumberland Fisheries Museum was closed,
despite advertisements saying open till October 1. We are definitely toward “end of season”.
Crossed to Cape Breton and begin seeing signs in Gaelic/English
with towns like Inverness and Donvegan.
First stop in Judique was the Celtic Music Interpretive Center. Nice displays and videos of Cape Breton
Music, which was carried here by the Scots back in late 1700’s, early 1800’s.
Mainly fiddles and bagpipes, with the fiddle by far the main instrument today.
Because the area was so remote and insular, the music and
dance remained strong and has been enjoying quite a comeback here and around
the world.
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| English/Gaelic Signs |
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| Celtic Music Center, Judique |
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| Fiddler Greg |
Stopped at a restaurant called The Mull in Mabou for some chowder which was delicious
with big chunks of lobster, haddock, clams and who knows what else. Boondocked at a pullout just outside of
Mabou.
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