Fort Bowie, Chiracahua Mts and Coatimundis, April 3, 2014

April 3rd Into Arizona

Nice night's rest.  While Greg does exercises this morning Anne and I go to a little bakery in Silver City called Diane's.  We had scones from there last time we were in town and they are terrific.  Today is Apricot & Cranberry,  Blueberry and Cinnamon Raisin.  We buy some of each and share, Yum.
Anne shows us materials she is putting together for a Rolling Rally of 24 class B Pleasureway rigs later this month.  Lots of history and suggestions of things to do between Tucson and Albuquerque.

Anne, Greg, Beth and Anne's Rig

We take some photos and then head out about 10:00, going south towards Arizona.  The winds aren't as strong today but there are lots of warning signs about dust storms. And many wind turbines to take advantage of the wind.  Lots more pecan and pistachio trees.

We cross into Arizona and first stop is Bowie, where we get gas and ask about a road across Apache Pass.  It shows as an unpaved road on the map but we are told it isn't bad and set out.   Lots of cattle guards and the road is rough but wide, just washboard in areas.  This road winds through Apache Pass which separates the Chiricahua Mountains and the Dos Cabeza Mountains.  Just before the highest point, there is a stop for Fort Bowie.  We park and hike in to the remains of the fort and visitor's center, about a mile and a half. Some nice wildflowers along the way but dry, with quite a few lizards.

trail to Fort Bowie

One of many small lizards

The Butterfield Overland Mail Company operated through this pass and it was popular with the local Indians due to some springs in the area where water was at a premium.

Apache Springs

Was also used by prehistoric mogollon indians. The fort was built in the 1860's to protect the route, mainly from the Apache Indians.  Both Geronimo and Cochise were active in this area.  The fort hasn't been active since 1894 and has deteriorated greatly.  We arrived just as a tour was about to begin so we joined the tour. Over 30 different structures have been identified and there was much history of fighting and peace agreements with the Indians who were eventually nearly all removed to Reservations.

Remains of adobe barracks.

Parade grounds with current visitor's center in background.

Despite being rugged and remote, the fort had amenities like running water, an ice machine, bathtubs and flush toilets (thanks to another nearby Spring.)

Post cemetery with grave of Geronimo's son. His relationship with the soldiers wasn't always adversarial.

We left the fort and continued across the mountains, back to paved road,  and into  Chiricahua National Monument.  On the drive in, we spot a coatimundi!

We stop to watch it and find 5 or 6 more that cross the road and are digging and foraging as they move.   They are pretty rare in the US, related to the raccoon but larger,  found mostly in South America so it is exciting to watch them!  Coati is also a great word for scrabble and crosswords.

We continue in the park,  and stop for a short hike at Massai Point. Some amazing rock formations including Columns, Pinnacles and Balanced Rocks throughout the park.

The campground here is full, so we head about 35 miles west to Wilcox Playa Wildlife Area and boondock there.  It is built mostly for migrating sandhill cranes October to March, so is empty now except for us and some birds. We finally get some signal and talk with Tom.  Sandwiches & veggies for dinner, a short walk and called it a day.