May 19 Arequipa to Colca Valley, Chivay

May 19, Sunday

Another typical breakfast, with the addition of pancakes - a novelty not seen anywhere else this trip. No syrup.  There are usually a few types of yogurt, also, served in pitchers.

We are supposed to be picked up at 7:30.  At 7:55, we call a help number to make sure all is well and as soon as I hang up, our guide arrives.  Fernando.  We have to walk a few blocks to get to the van as traffic didn't allow them to get close to the hotel.  They have already picked up several other guests, so we figure they began pickups at 7:30 and just didn't get to us till later.

Today we will visit the Highlands, Colca Canyon area, passing the highest mountain pass at Papampa at 16,600 feet!  Fernando is relaxed and informative.  He encourages us to drink plenty of water and later demonstrates how to chew coca leaves, which have been used since pre-Inca times as a natural remedy for many ailments, including altitude sickness.  The government approves producers for legitimate use.  We stop at a small shop for water and coca leaves - Greg and I opt for coca candy lozengers instead.  (Coca leaves are a mild appetite suppressant and stimulant about equivalent to coffee.)

Unfortunately, cocaine is also a product of Peru - with all of the poverty, it must be extremely tempting to grow this crop for drug use.  It has to be treated with kerosene and made into a powder to become cocaine.  US led attempts at irradication  had little effect and caused issues with damage to other crops and have been halted. Instead they encourage coffee and cocoa production.

Our group consists of a mom Ginette, dad Pierre and daughter Jasmine from Montreal,  Miguel from Madrid, and us.  Fernando covers things in Spanish and English.  The folks from Montreal speak French at home, but also are pretty fluent in English.  The daughter, age 24, also speaks Spanish and some Japanese!  We will travel with these folks much of the rest of the trip.

As we are leaving town, we pass a large shanty town.  Fernando explains that his country has a big problem with unfinished buildings. .

 This is because in 1993 the government passed a law that says you don't have to pay taxes until your building is completed.  Therefore MANY people never finish their home, leaving exposed rebar and partial walls.  We see this all over the country. Many people are selling items along the road.

The highway is narrow and heavily used.  Passenger trains were abandoned in the 1980's because they were never upgraded.  The railroad is almost exclusively used for the copper mines.

We pass through rural land where potatoes and corn are the main crops.  Then we enter a nature preserve which protects the vicuna.

 Vicuna are not domesticated, but the people who live in the preserve, about 4,000 of them, are allowed to herd  and collect their wool once every 2 years in August. They only have wool on their chest and it is the most expensive wool of all, about $200 per kilogram.   We stop to observe several groups which consist of an alpha male and 2-20 females.  Foxes are their only predator.

Global warming is becoming an issue here, as it is all over the world.  Colder than normal winters kills many animals.

Next stop is at Papampa - 16,600 feet - where we can see an active volcano with wisps of steam.  It last erupted in 1992.

 The locals have set up a large area where they are selling blankets, scarves, bags, etc. Some beautiful work but we will soon tire of seeing it, as any roadside stop is considered a selling opportunity!  At least the people are generally not pushy in encouraging sales.

 There is a definite impact on breathing, with the body occasionally reminding you to take deeper breaths. Glad we don't have to exert much energy!

We stop at Patahuasi for 20 minutes.  Here the road splits and many of the trucks will go toward the mines.  Traffic should be lighter.  We also purchase some herbal tea.

Later, we stop again to see Llamas and Alpacas, which are being tended by a young shepherd.  Both are raised for their wool, and alpacas for their meat as well.  We are allowed to wander and touch them but are warned never to touch their ears, because they will spit on you and it is "very disgusting" according to Fernando.

 The number of yarns in their ears tell how old.  Llamas can live 20-24 years.
 There are toilets nearby and we pay 1 sol to use them - actually you pay one sol for a few sheets of toilet paper.  Nowhere in Peru are you allowed to put paper into the toilets, even in the airports and hotels.

In the town of Chivay, we stop for lunch.

 There are several stir-fry type dishes, as well as soups and potatoes.  Some salad ingredients and even a pasta dish.  Traditional puddings made from cactus and mango are tasty.

We are dropped at our hotel,  Pozo del Cielo (Heaven's Well), which is on a hill near town.

 It is colder here and our room has a small space heater that looks like a fireplace.  Also has an electric blanket on the bed.  The hotel is a warren of rooms with a nice central garden. This is the national flower.

View of town from our room.

We rest a bit, then walk into town.  Back to sweaters and jackets, and I buy a nice wool hat from one of the vendors. Though it is the capital of this Province, Chivay is a small town. Small market and many statues with local costumes.  These seem to be popular in many towns.

This lady posed with her alpaca for tips, but we see others dressed similarly who are just going about their business.

Here the women are wearing white wide-brimmed hats.  Each area has its own style hat; some with fringe, some black bowlers, etc.

 Fernando suggests that we eat light tonight and eat in the hotel for safety.  Digestion is slow in the Highlands, he says.

We have a light dinner in the unheated dining room, roast chicken, alpaca, soup and sliced bananas in honey. Wifi is good.

Our bed is cozy as the temperature drops to near freezing outside.