May 18 2019 Arequipa, Peru

May 18  Arequipa

Today we have a free day to explore the city at our own pace.

Breakfast is again a buffet, though they make and serve our eggs separately.   There is usually mango juice, pineapple juice and orange juice and sometimes peach.  Fruits include mango, papaya, watermelon and sometimes pineapple or passion fruit. The toaster here doesn't automatically pop up, so our first toast is rather dark!

These walls must be a foot thick!

 I've begun drinking coca leaf tea, as it is supposed to help with altitude problems. Tastes like regular tea, but a little bitter, so I add sugar.

Arequipa is guarded by 3 volcanos and has a history of earthquakes in 1687, 1868, 1958, 1960 and 2001.  The streets are cobblestone and most of the buildings are white stone which have fared well with the earthquakes.  We are only a few blocks from the Plaza de Armas, the central square, which is quite large.

One entire side of the plaza is taken up by the huge Basilica cathedral. Most of the population is Roman Catholic.

Other sides are lined with buildings and graceful archways, housing shops,  restaurants and other businesses.

 Behind the outer walls of buildings, there are often courtyards leading to other buildings.  The BBVA bank is tucked back into such a complex, and we go there to get some coins.  The Neuvo Sol is worth about $.33.  There are coins in 1, 2 and 5 sol amounts, and bills in 10, 20, 50 and 100 sol amounts.  There are also centimos, 100 to a sol, so they are kind of a nuisance coin. (Tipping is frequent and we are always running out of coins.)

This is another nearbychurch  - incredibly ornate  detail.

The Monasterio de Santa Catalina is a highlight of the city, so we head there.  It is a convent that is almost a city within the city, with many streets, buildings and gardens.   Inside the entrance, we pay to hire an English-speaking guide who is quite pleasant.

The convent was founded in 1579, and added to over the years.  Originally, usually the second daughter in a family was sent to the convent at a young age.  At 16 she could choose to leave or commit.  The family paid a dowry and support.   The convent was also a school for girls who lived there with their nannies.  Many of the bedrooms were built with arches under which people slept to have some protection in case of earthquakes.

After passing the silence arch,  we enter the novice cloister.

 Novices spent 20 hours a day in their room, in prayer and doing sewing/embroidery work.  They received instruction through a small window.  There were 7 girls at a time.  Graduated novices entered the Orange Cloister.  Their cells ranged from austere to lavish, depending on the wealth of their families.  A few had multiple rooms and nice furniture.

People were obviously shorter then...

This is the washing area which channeled mountain runoff.   A few areas are closed due to earthquake damage.

Lots of geraniums!

This was a guinea pig pen near the kitchen.  Many homes in Peru continue to raise them for food.

Sor Ana, a nun who lived here from the age of 3 is renowned for her predictions and miracles and is said to have been able to levitate.  Her rooms are preserved and there were many bundles of clothing on her bed, left by those seeking healing or a miracle. She has been beatified by the church, the first step to being named a saint.

In 1871, the Pope ordered that the nuns should live communally - no individual housing, and eat meals communally.  Till then many of the individual units had kitchens and servants.  There are about 20 nuns in residence today and their dormitory is, of course, closed to the public.  They still make soap and embroider items to raise money.

 A gallery of religious paintings, above, and a beautiful monstrance near the chapel.

The mountains are in view from a second story patio area.

We stop in a few shops on the way back to the hotel and purchase a table runner woven in bright colors.  The day is warm, so we change outfits and leave our jackets in the room.

We seek out a restaurant that we've read about called ZigZag, which is supposed to be an excellent modern Peruvian venue.  The winding stairs to the upper floor was designed by Gustav Eiffel, of Eiffel Tower fame.

Restaurants offer "menu" items, which means a set price 3-course meal which is usually less expensive than a la carte items.  (If you want to see what we call a menu, you ask for a carte.) Zig Zag has several set menus, each from a specific area of Peru.  Greg opts for the "From the Volcano" menu which includes cream of pumpkin and carrot soup,  a trio of meats cooked on a volcanic stone (chicken, beef and alpaca), and vanilla ice cream.

 Beth goes for the "From the Andes" menu with Quinoa Soup with baby vegetables and white cheese, Lake Arapa Trout cooked on volcanic rock, and vanilla ice cream with red berries and grand mariner.  We are also served a dense bread with herb butter and a spicy banana spread, as well as various sauces with garlic, honey, sesame seeds and an orange sauce - maybe sweet potatoes? And roasted potatoes, of course.

The service, presentation and food are terrific.  Alpaca seems a bit drier than beef but doesn't have a strong flavor.     Greg has Inca Tea and Beth sticks with water. Cost is 138 sol - about $45 - which is high end.   We have not tried wine in Peru, since we were warned back in Lima that the wine here is very sweet (for a sweet people...) and we don't often see it offered.

We wander the streets some more, enjoy listening to a violinist and purchasing a Christmas ornament at a craft market. Lots of leather items and fabrics, knits and weavings.  Back to the room about 4:30 for a shower and some R&R.

After dark, we head back to the square and take a few photos.  Nice full moon tonight, so not many stars visible.  Lots of people out and about.

We wonder into one of the courtyards near the hotel and find a little cafe where we share a small pizza and beer.  The violinist from earlier today is performing nearby and there are several galleries of photos and art, including an interesting Van Gogh exhibit.

 Greg liked the cafe menu, which was a small book with many blank pages in the back for "leave your memories".

Nice, relaxing day.  We will be picked up tomorrow for a 7:30 departure.