Sunday, June 4, 2023 Canyon de Chelly, Monument Valley, Goosenecks Park

 Sunday, June 4

38 degrees this morning, so another comfortable night's sleep.  The check engine light continues to come on and we also have a rhythmic ticking noise, particularly noticeable when idling. So far no other symptoms! 

We stop at a McDonalds in Gallup for coffee and a bite before heading up 264W - the Navajo Code Talker Highway.  Did you know that the Navajo Code was the only one not broken by the enemy in WWII? Navajo soldiers communicated in their language, which was never interpreted by the enemy. We are headed to Canyon De Chelly (pronounced Canyon de Shay) National Monument in Arizona.

On the way we stop by Fort Hubbell Trading Post, which has been operating since 1878, serving and trading with the Navajo and early settlers. A combination of basic convenience store - milk, eggs, potatoes, and native produced rugs, pottery and other items.  Some beautiful pieces! Quite expensive, but these are hand made items. Though the items have changed over the years, they continue to provide a needed service in this extremely rural area.

On to Canyon de Chelly, where people have lived for nearly 5,000 years! It has been occupied by the Navajo nation since 1700. Before that there is evidence of Archaic, Basketmaker, Pueblo and Hopi civilizations. 

We stop at the Visitors Center for a map of the area and decide to check out the overlooks along the rim drive. They have an example of the Navajo hogan, which we will see at various locations. Made from a combination of wood, stone and clay.

 From the overlooks, we can see verdant pastures and fields tucked in amongst the towering canyon walls.  Looking closely, we can also see remnants of some ancient cliff dwellings. Unfortunately the White House trail and tour is closed at this time and the only other option is to sign up for a tour with a native guide, which we haven't signed up for.

This is Tunnel overlook. The Canyon is known for its fine corn fields and peach orchards, and the Navajo also introduced sheep herding. In 1863 the US began a brutal campaign against the Navajo and forced them on a long 300 mile walk to to Fort Sumner in New Mexico, where they were held for four years before being allowed to return to their land.

This is Junction overlook where Canyon de Muerto joins Canyon de Chelly.  This is where Beth's SD card in the camera fails, so I've lost the morning's shots.  Good thing Greg is taking pictures too, and I've got another card.

The last is Spider Rock Overlook where an 800' sandstone spire rises from the canyon floor. It's impossible to capture in a one dimensional photo.

From here we head further north towards Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, still in Arizona. Even along the way, between official "monuments", there are beautiful sandstone formations, which I'm sure someone has named at some point.

 Monument Valley is a popular and busy destination.  We opt to drive the 15 mile scenic trail, with an entry fee of $8 per person. The road,  a combination of dirt/rock/gravel/sand is in pretty awful condition.   Perhaps they leave it so bad to encourage people to pay to use their vehicles which carry about 20 people. 

Mittens

Three Sisters

We make it past the Mittens,  three sisters, thunderbird mesa and lots more. The sandstone formations range  from 400' to 1000' tall. Mesas, buttes, shrubs and trees, rocks and windblown sand - we even saw a dust devil. Even so - some flowers flourish!

The monuments are magnificent and dwarfing. Again, impossible to capture the overall expansive feeling.  Concerns about the road and traffic take away from the ambience a bit, to the point that we both breathe a sigh of relief when done.

We can totally see why John Ford in particular, filmed many of his Western scenes here.  And we pass Forest Gump Point where, in the movie, he stops running and says "I think I'll go home now".

We continue north into Utah, to camp at Goosenecks State Park.  Goosenecks refers to the sinuous river curves known as meanders of the San Juan River, which have carved deeply into the surrounding landscape.  We park near the edge of this amazing geologic activity. Several thousand feet of earth have been eroded from this site over the past several million years.  We are looking way down to the river.

There are about a dozen other rv'ers here, with a few from other countries.  Our nearest neighbors have brought their rig from Holland, another is from British Columbia, a third has foreign plates but we're not sure where they are from.  We've encounter folks from Australia, England and Germany in the past.  People either ship their rigs here and spend a Summer exploring, or rent an RV here.

Nice golden hour and sunset.