October 7, 2020 Outer Banks Hattaras

 Wednesday, October 7

Sixty three degrees this morning at 7AM as we head for the beach again.  Beautiful morning light and the sand feels delightfully soft and cool. 

Lots of shorebirds on the beach and pelicans crisscrossing the skies.  Several of these critters too - look like a cross between a jelly fish and an anemone.   Oddly, not many gulls at all - guess they are gathering elsewhere.

After rinsing the sand off, we have some breakfast go back to the main road, and stop by a small marina to use their dump station.  Lots of fishing charter boats.

and then head off to nearby Brodie Island and our first lighthouse. 

Opened in October 1872, the brick beauty is 164.4' tall.  We learn that black, white and red are the colors used on most lighthouses because of their good contrast with a blue sky.  Each has a distinctive paint pattern (called a daymark) so they are easily identified, as well as a distinctive repeat flash pattern so that they can be identified at night. Brodie Island Lighthouse is visible up to 19 miles. Like all of the lights, it is now automated, so no more keepers.

 Only part of the keepers house is open with a few photos and gift shop.   Unfortunately, the lighthouses themselves are closed due to COVID and close quarters.  Lots of mosquitoes if you venture off the walkway (ask Greg how we know this)!

We continue down Route 12 and pass several places where heavy equipment is moving sand from the pavement.  Other machines move that sand farther into the dunes.  Must be a never-ending process!

Next stop is the Chicamacomico Lifesaving Station museum and grounds.  Interesting piece of history, it operated between 1874 and 1954.   The coast here was dangerous due to currents, wind and shifting sand bars. The frequent number of ships in distress created the need for a manned Lifesaving Station.  Already established in the New England area, this was the first manned station in North Carolina.  Stations were built 7 miles on either side of lighthouses.

The lifesaving crew had a complex system of rescue involving a cannon which shot a projectile with attached line to the wreck to establish a connection, breeches buoys which held survivors who were then pulled to shore, surf boats and more. It was a strenuous and dangerous process! 

We watched a film about the most well-known rescue here, saving 42 men from a burning 6000 ton oil tanker sunk by a German-placed mine.  I didn't know the extent of damage done by Germans to US shipping off our coast!

Later, we stop at another beach for a leisurely stroll.  There was a group of little kids who looked amazingly similar to the little sanderlings that run from the incoming surf.

Getting near the town of Buxton, at Hatteras Point, we stop at Diamond Shoals restaurant to sample some seafood.  Our first eat-in restaurant, it was not very busy for a late lunch. Beth tried grouper - delicious, while Greg opted for shrimp and crabmeat quesadilla, so-so.

We visit the  Cape Hatteras Light Station next, which was moved to this location in 1996 due to encroaching water. This light was established in 1802 with a light that flashes every 7 1/2 seconds. Two keepers houses are also preserved here, one open as a museum where rangers monitored entry and chatted with visitors. Mandatory masks - they seemed to be required all over North Carolina, and folks are complying without whining and complaining - how nice!   More coastal history and displays.

From here it is a short drive south to Frisco Campground, site 60.  These sites are near the beach but in a more wooded area, and are nicely spaced so you can barely see each other.  About 1/4 mile to the beach

 through woods and boardwalk, then dunes.

Nice beach!  More shells, fewer people.  Vehicles are allowed on the beach but are mostly a few fishermen and occasional family.  A few paddle surfers and kite flyers as well.   We've seen lots of trucks with coolers and fishing gear attached to front or rear, sometimes both.

This osprey swooped over our heads and went for something in the surf, but apparently got nothing but wet.

Back at the campsite we discover that the showers here are cold water only (Greg went first and warned me!), but bath houses are very clean. 

Just a snacky dinner - cheese, crackers, wine, and nuts.  Nice starry sky tonight!