Sat, May 14, Sevilla & flamenco

Saturday, May 14

This morning, we return the rental car to the Sevilla airport.  We have rented through Hertz and have no problems with the return.  We then catch the Especial Aeropuerto bus to town.  Lots of mostly young tourists, perhaps here for the weekend.

We walk to the Cathedral and get in the long line.  At least we have entertainment from this flamenco duo while we wait.

 Once inside the Cathedral, we follow Rick Steve's suggested tour.  This is third largest cathedral in Europe after St. Peter's in Vatican and St. Paul's in London and was begun in 1401 on the site of a mosque which was on the site of a Roman temple. Very impressive windows, many paintings, some of which feature Santa Justa and Santa Rufina, two of Sevilla's patron saints.  Every town and every occupation have their patron saints.  Later our tour guide in Barcelona says Barcelona has 26 patron saints and she secretly thinks it is because it gives people an excuse to have more vacation days and celebrations.  Most of the holidays here do seem to be religious in origin. Apparently Holy Week is a very big deal with parades and parties throughout the country (crowds too).

The main high altar is 65'  tall with 44 scenes in the life of Jesus - a staggering amount of gold leaf!

Elsewhere, four pallbearers representing the regions of Spain,  carry the coffin of Christopher Columbus. They think at least some of his body is here, though several other cities claim to have parts as well. Though revered and celebrated now, he died destitute and unpopular.

 Lots of beautiful gold pieces in the Treasury, including this gorgeous royal crown. The body of the cupid left of center is made from world's largest(?) pearl.

Next we climb the Giraldo Bell Tower, a former moorish minaret. We look down on an orange grove within the walls.

 The walk up is a brick ramp because the man who gave the call to prayer rode a donkey up to the top.  There are some gargoyles on the cathedral.

 The bells ring for noon while we are up there - very loud!

Back down the ramp and  a wedding party is arriving as we were leaving.

We stop at Casa Carmeno for lunch, some chorizo diablesa (spicy pork sausage), and a chicken and apple salad.

sangria

We walk through Barrio Santa Cruz.  Some of the walkways are so narrow the walls almost meet - they call them kissing lanes. They provide welcome shade in the hot summers.  The use of tiles is also supposed to help keep things cooler.

Next we visit the Hospital de los Venerables, a former charity-run old folks home with a Baroque church and some great paintings by Velasquez.

The Guadalquivir River goes through Sevilla, and we cross the Isabel II Bridge to Triana, an area formerly inhabited mainly by gypsies.

Some of the "love locks" on the bridge

 Now being gentrified, there are many restaurants, shops, etc. in the area.  We walk for a while and stop by the church of Santa Ana which has heavy leather hangings in the doorways instead of doors.
 It features a madonna who is the patron saint of sailors.

 Someone tells us that when Spaniards meet, the first thing they ask is which football (soccer) team they support.  The second thing is which madonna (Virgin Mary) they pray to.... we have seen dozens.

Walking back towards the bus stop we see more street performers and pass the Torre Del Oro, which used to be covered with gold tiles.  Many fountains throughout the city.

Torre del Oro on the river

We head back to the hotel and have a drink and sandwich.  Then, we use their computer to print our boarding passes for our early flight to Barcelona.  We decide to take the bus rather than call a taxi in the morning, 8 euros vs 25, and we'll catch the bus at 5:10AM.