Wednesday, October 12
Leaving Galway this morning we note electric scooters, bikes, cars, buses and lots of people walking. Goodbye Maldron.
Back into the countryside, we cross an area called the Burren which is basically a plateau of limestone pavement. Seaweed and sand made the beginnings of soil, but this area is very windy and not much soil stays put. What there is is very thin. There are layers of hills with much exposed rock. (There are also quite a few caves, underground rivers, nooks and crannies, says David.) We pass Dunguarierie Castle and many standing towers that are remains of old castles or fortresses.
We are noticing thatched roofs on some houses. And more cows than sheep. Cows are able to graze year round and David says if he was reincarnated, he'd choose to be an Irish cow. In the Spring, this area is filled with wildflowers which are used in perfumes.
Near the coast we leave limestone for sandstone, created by river deltas, and begin to see some bogs with stacks of peat. We go through the town of Lisdoovarna, home to the largest matchmaking festival in the world. David and our driver Tommy enjoy a stop.
We reach the Cliffs of Moher, which are home to many sea birds and other sea creatures. Puffins, once plentiful, are unfortunately on the decline because of warming temperatures. We walk the cliffs where it is cold and windy but not raining, and see several rock formations, like O'Brien's Tower and Hag's Head.
The visitor's center has a film and many displays. Lots of people, too!
Lots of winding, narrow roads. This is the top of one called corkscrew hill. Occasionally we see signs at a blind curve that say "Oncoming traffic in middle of road".
We had to back up quite a ways to find a place where this tractor could get by us! (Fureys of Sligo on the window was the name of the company providing the bus.)
In the picture below you can see where turf has been cut and stacked for drying.
Next stop is Limerick which was founded by Vikings by the River Shannon. We stop to visit Bunratty Castle and meet our guide, Carmen. This site began as a Viking trading camp in 970. The first castle was built in 1250. The current one was finished around 1425 and was restored in the 1950's and 60's. And to think that we in the US think that something from the 1800's is really old!
We meet in the Great Hall, which housed soldiers, separated by rank. The higher the rank, the closer to the large fireplace. The doorways are narrow to allow only one person at a time, making defense easier. Crests surround the top of the walls and there are a few ancient tapestries.
This is one of the original tapestries. This one has been cleaned and taken care of, the others are quite dark. It is very expensive to have them treated, so the others are waiting for funds.
After Carmen's spiel, we have some time to explore, climbing a narrow tower with its twisting stone stairs. Outside the Castle is a Folk Park, quite nicely done. It has various gardens, animals, numerous thatched
buildings and more to show how people lived. We have time to wonder and see most of it.
A little bit of Autumn color.
The park blends into the town.
From here it is a 2 hour drive to our hotel - The Rose - in Tralee. (If it sounds familiar, the Rose of Tralee is an annual beauty pageant.) We cross under the river Shannon by tunnel and see more beautiful countryside.
Dinner at the hotel is salad, fish (or chicken) and a delicious apple crisp. David presents a few presents to the newly engaged couple, two other couples who are on their honeymoons, and a few birthday gifts. Quite generous! This hotel is very nice, linen table cloths and all.... and lovely heat in our room!
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