A brisk 33 degrees at 6:30 this morning! Didn't want to bother neighbors this early by running the generator to make coffee, so we scoot into Roswell's McDonalds for breakfast and wifi. They do make the most of the space visitors theme in this town! We've done the UFO museum before and agree to disagree on its importance - I am pro, Greg is no.
We pass through a tiny town called Hondo and liked the sign at this shop.
We continue on to Ruidoso Downs and the Hubbard Museum of the American West. Since it is affiliated with the Smithsonian, we figure it can't be bad.... and it isn't!
The museum is in what used to be an ice skating rink, but the designers have done a nice job in re-purposing it! Many of the items are from the personal collection of Anne Stradling who began collecting horse-related items as a young girl in New York. In addition to many saddles and bridles there are firearms, Indian and Kachina Dolls, clothing, photographs and paintings, and a large collection of buggies, coaches, buckboards and other types of wagons. Greg is particularly impressed with presentations, lighting, etc.
This chess set made with Indian dolls was unique.
Called "Passing Times", this life-size bronze by Veryl Goodnight depicts a woman in fancy dress riding sidesaddle passing another woman in trousers riding astride.
Next door is a Billy the Kid museum - the region's other claim to fame. We've seen a few "Billy Slept Here", or "Billy escaped from jail here" type places in the past and opt to pass on any more.
From here it is a bit of a drive to Fort Stanton, which is rich in history. We stop at another Rockhounding site along the way and find a chunk of green limestone and some selenite.
The area around the site of the fort was occupied by the Mescalero Indians up until the mid 1800's, when white settlers began moving in, attracted by water and fertile land. The ensuing Indian Wars with Kit Carson and crew significantly reduced the population of Native Americans. Fort Stanton was established in 1855 to protect the growing Anglo population. It also housed the Mescalero Apache Indian Agency in 1868.
In the 1870's cattle became big business and in 1878 the Lincoln Country Wars broke out. These were bloody battles between different factions that wanted to deal in provisions for the fort, a business worth millions in todays currency.
The Fort was briefly held by Confederate Soldiers during the Civil War, and was largely burned, first by the Union and then by the Confederates, though most of it was stone so it wasn't completely destroyed. In 1896 the Fort was decommissioned, rebuilt and became the first Federal Tubercular Hospital, largely due to the perceived healthy climate - very dry.
In later lives, it became a State Hospital, and then a Mental Health, Rehab Correctional Facility from 1964 to 2009. It has been a Living History Museum since 2011. There is also a Federal Military Cemetery located nearby.
Our guide, Scott, was a good storyteller and showed us several buildings. Many well known military people were here over the years, including Generals Sherman and Sheridan, and General Pershing prior to WWI.
The temperature was falling as we toured Fort Stanton and we talked to a ranger there about possible warmer places to camp. He suggested heading down to the Tuscalero Valley and Valley of Fires BLM campground - about 2,000' lower in elevation. We find a nice campground on a ridge overlooking fields of lava rock. Heated restrooms, electric hookups and showers for $9 a night!
It is very windy and cold, so we opt to stay in, read and work on photos. From our campsite we can see a boardwalk through the lava fields, but no hikers today. We have a brief wintry rain and are happy to run our small electric heater through the night!
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