Roadtrek Travels: June 21 More Glacier, Browning, and Dance

Thursday, June 21

We planned to leave very early this morning to do the entire length of Going to the Sun Road. But we discover that the front gates to the campground are locked until 6 AM. Fortunately we only have a few minutes to wait as we watch the sun rise. Nice lighting.

These teepees are on the campground property and just went up yesterday.

This magpie seems to be hanging out around the entrance each time we come or go. We see many of them out and about but hardly ever still. There are also many swallows which have built nests around the office building.

We arrive at the entrance to the park, only to find that we were misinformed and the road has not been opened. Boo Hiss....The lighting is nice, though, so we take a few pictures of sites that look brighter without the rain.

Then we go back to the Many Glacier area. (The road hasn't gotten any better!) We stop at the Apikuni Falls trail and set out through a meadow of wildflowers. Bear grass,

Unknown bright whites.

Wild geranium.

Buckwheat.

It is only about a mile to the falls, but nearly 800 feet of elevation change, so we head uphill - at first briskly, then more slowly, and then stopping every so often to get more oxygen! Huff, puff.... finally the trail levels out and we can hear the falls.

Very rocky here at the top with ground squirrels and chipmunks wondering who is invading their territory.

We rest and enjoy the sound and the views.

Then here comes a young family, strolling along without a care. Mom carries an infant in a backpack while Dad carries a 2-3 year old and another little girl of about 5 scrambles along beside them. Boy, do I feel OLD! We do pass a few younger huff-and-puffers on the way back down, so I feel a little better. We take a few little side trails for some spectacular views on the return trip.

Back to Camp, we have a pb&j lunch, empty tanks....then shower and clean up. We plan on leaving early tomorrow morning.

We meet our driver for the boat tour on St. Mary's Lake at 2:00 and find there are only four of us. Ed, our driver, is also our boat captain. He has a nice double-(or is it triple?) pontoon boat with comfortable seating.

Ed is a Blackfoot and very knowledgeable about the area. He said people have lived in this area for 15,000 years and talks about how the introduction of the horse in the 1600's changed things dramatically, from warfare to migrations, hunting, trading, and more.

The Indian name for these mountains means The Backbone of Mother Earth. The deep lake does freeze to a 3-4' thickness and water temperature now is in the 50's. There are scattered homes here and there which he says are in "cottage zones" of the reservation and are Blackfoot only areas. Some quite nice, some basic.

Far in the distance is Divide Mountain....as far as we know, it is the only mountain where the snow melt goes in three different directions - to the Arctic, to the Pacific and to the Gulf of Mexico!

We go by Wild Bird Island looking for owls and bald eagles but see none today. Only a few loons and ducks. This is a loon.

This lake is home to Pike, Bull and Rainbow trout up to 25-30 lbs. Bull trout are the native species which is on the decline in many areas, but healthy here.

Clouds have moved in and we see some distant lightning, which signals an abrupt end to the boat tour as we quickly head back to the dock.

Fortunately, the storm steers wide of us and we are able to have a campfire and make a good dinner. Beth soaks corn on the cob in the husk, then wraps it in foil and throws it on the coals. We also do a version of "silver turtles", chopped potatoes and onions with salt and pepper and butter wrapped in foil packets and also thrown on the fire. Greg cooks steaks on the grill and we feast! Happy belated birthday dinner!

This evening we have Blackfoot entertainment by Grammy-nominated drummer Young Greyhorse and a troupe of dancers. We are also joined by Earl Old Person, a Blackfoot chief, who gives a little bit of history and an opening prayer.

There is a Grand Entry, led by a color guard of ex-military men carrying an American Flag, a Montana Flag and a Blackfoot Flag.

There are various types of dancers and each type gets to perform, along with several numbers where all are involved. I talk with Clint Blackweasel, a fancy grass dancer, before the performances and he shakes hands and agrees to pose for a photo.

There are various styles of dancing - traditional, modern - and some dances originated with other tribes which is always noted. The accompaniment of drums and voices of the two men are meant to imitate the heart beat.