We had read about Rob’s Donuts as THE place for beignets here in Thibodaux , so head there for breakfast. Unfortunately they are OUT. But we manage to find some very tasty substitutes, as well as coffee.
Next stop is Jean LaFitte National Historical Park & Preserve. A nice location on the bayou, they have a local museum about Cajuns, as well as a helpful information center. There is a confluence of Bayou Fourchet and Bayou Terrebonne which is where a fort originally stood. The Acadians, French who were forced to leave Nova Scotia’s English settlement during “The Great Upheaval”, settled here in 1765-1785. Other French, German, Spanish and American Indians also stirred this melting pot, resulting in Cajun Acadiana. A patois of French is still spoken by many.
On advice from Allyn, the Park Ranger here, we decide to head south to Houma and even further south to the Gulf. Allyn raves about the scenery and wildlife in the area and so we head out towards LUMCO – Louisiana Universities Marene Consortium – a research center open to the public and a “must see” down that way.
Once we leave Houma, which is mainly a support city for Oil and Gas exploriation and companies, we follow along Petit Bayou Caillou. Few actual cities, but a pretty steady line of homes and boats along the bayou. Many shrimp boats as we near the Gulf.
The homes and the boats come in all shapes and sizes.
We stop next at the Chauvin Sculpture Garden in Chauvin, a collection of sculptures created by an artist named Kenny Hill. While looking around there, we hear a local explain that Mr. Hill lived on this property in a tent and devoted his life to creating his sculpture. Apparently, a Mr. Nichols (a local politician of some sort – there is a college named after him in Thibodaux) had Mr. Hill declared incompetent because he refused to build a house and had some pretty unusual art, and took his land, then donated it to the parish. A big controversy at the time. Mr. Hill left and developed a bit of a cult following, as folks from all over come to see his sculpture which has something to do with his take on the book of Revelations. Lots of angels, along with cowboys, Indians, musicians and others. Unique.
This is the artist’s self sculpture.
Before long we reach the end of the road and the LUMCO buildings and grounds. There are a few aquariums, a viewing tower, and informational displays. We learn that 90% of Terrebonne Parish is covered by wetlands or open water and that statewide there over 200,000 commercial fisherman. The top 5 fisheries are for Gulf menhaden (an oily fish not consumed but used in commercial fish & livestock food), shrimp, blue crab, oysters and other finfish. Much of the research here is done to learn how to manage this land which co-exists with a large oil and gas industry. We aren’t sure why Allyn thought this was such an amazing place. Interesting, yes, but not imho, worth the drive.
We opt to head back north by a different route, along Grand Bayou Caillou. Pretty, open, empty wetland for a while, then back to stilted homes, boats, and some industry. Lots of oil field support companies.
Away from the coast, large oak trees appear. Some must be quite old. There are also many above-ground cemeteries. This pic shows both at St. Luke’s Baptist Church somewhere along 182N.
We stop at Mandalay National Wildlife Refuge in Houma and walk the nature trail. It is by now mid afternoon and “not a creature was stiring” other than an egret or two and some giant snails (about 3 inches long), and this interesting bird.
Since we have a swamp tour scheduled near Breaux Bridge tomorrow morning, we head that direction, about a two hour drive to the Atchafalaya Welcome Center which has a nice facility for overnighting. But first, we stop for some more good food. Greg opts for crawfish étouffée, while Beth has crab and shrimp gumbo and a yummy crab cake. (Forgot the pic till it was almost gone)
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