Cochiti Lake; Tent Rocks Oct 11

Wednesday, October 11

Cochiti Lake is an Army Corps of Engineer Lake with a huge earthen dam.  Pretty in the morning sun.

We decide to head to nearby Tent Rocks National Monument this morning, also known as Kasha-Katuwe, the indian name meaning “white cliffs”.

 After breakfast, we take the slot canyon trail.  Huge cliffs and narrow slot canyons -  amazing what water and wind can create!   Very narrow in spots and the graceful curves where water flowed are quite pronounced!

Beth walks about a mile of the trail and then heads back when it becomes steep climbing.  Greg and Gwynne continue on to a beautiful view from the top, then take the Cave Loop trail to a large cave surrounded by white rock. 

  Several buses of loud, exhuberant teenagers arrive from Albuquerque and we are once again glad to have arrived early as they pass us going in on our way out.

We stop at a Blake's Lotsaburger, a New Mexico chain known for the green chili burgers.  Gwynne tries one (with the chilis on the side).  

Next stop, still heading south toward the
Balloon Fiesta Park, is the Coronado Historic Site.   We have a guide here named Charlie (who is originally from South Philly) who is very respectful and enthusiastic about this site.   This pueblo was inhabited from about 1300 to 1600 and consisted of about 1200 rooms.

 

In February of 1540, Coronado along with about 300 Spanish soldiers and nearly 1,000 Indian allies and slaves came to this area.  They also brought cattle and horses which were totally new to residents here.  This was the site of the Kuala Pueblo and being near the Rio Grande and not far from the mountains it was a prosperous site.  Unfortunately, Coronado and his entourage needed food and shelter badly and pretty much took what they needed, and left livestock roam, wiping out the Indians food supplies meant to last the Winter.  This led to animosity and violence and the Spanish eventually withdrew, only to return in 1598 as settlers, claiming much of the good land.

 

In 1884, the archeologist Bandelier rediscovered the ruins here. Later, in the 1930’s,   desperate to find an encampment site of Coronado, Bandelier named this as such, though there is little to support the claim.  They didn’t find traces of Coronado, but they did find an amazing square kiva with many murals. The walls had been painted and repainted many times.  Archeologists at the University of New Mexico were able to remove the walls and preserve many of the murals, about a dozen of which are on display in a separate room here at the visitors center (no photos allowed). The kiva itself was restored and we were able to climb a ladder into it. 

The murals there today were duplicates of originals and were done by a native artist.   They include dancers, birds, deer, many symbols for water.  Only men were allowed in the kiva.  There are strict rules about entering the kiva because the murals depict symbols from their history and sacred  ceremonies and no photography is allowed.

There is a reconstructed example of one of the rooms from this pueblo.  Short people! 

Realizing that what was uncovered in the 1930’s was quickly deteriorating, the archeologists re-covered most of the pueblo ruins for posterity, so what is seen now is a footprint of re-constructed adobe  bricks outlining what is below the ground.  Things found on these grounds showed that the residents traded widely, from California to Mexico.  Most of the Indian Pueblos were matriarchal in nature, with the youngest daughter in the family inheriting property. 

Gwynne and I bought some small clay ornaments from a pueblo man who makes them with his wife.  He was eager to explain the symbolism and gave us a card with an email address where we could ask any questions.

We arrive at the Balloon Fiesta RV Campsite around 5:30 PM.  They have been doing this for  many years so signage and organization is good.  There are nearly 1,000 rvs from our tiny one to huge ones with decks on their roofs!  We are in an area adjacent to a small cemetery where there is a row of small vehicles.  At least our neighbors are quiet is the joke! 

Greg grills burgers for dinner and we regroup for tomorrow’s early morning.  There are shuttle buses (converted school buses) to take us to the launch field about a half mile away, which is a great deal because they bypass traffic and avoid the $15 parking fee!  Dawn Patrol begins about 5:45AM tomorrow!  There are no activities tonight.