January 25, Joshua Tree, 2016

January 25, Monday

We camped on Dome Road on the west side of Quartzite, so easily got on I-10 in the morning, heading west.  Crossed the California border about 8:15 and stopped at the small town of Blythe, where we found gas and a nice Albertson’s grocery store.

California desert looks pretty much like Arizona desert. Mesquite and creosote bushes, occasional cacti.  Lots of traffic on this road but interesting that the speed limit for 18-wheelers is only 55.  We actually spent some time in the passing lane!

We headed to Joshua Tree National Park, where we stopped at the Visitor’s Center, watched a film and talked with a ranger.  The Park is large and contains parts of both the Mojave Desert (north)and the Colorado Desert(south). We are at the southern tip and most of the camping and trails are north.  Not much in the south – many yuccas, but no Joshua Trees. The road to the north is steadily but not steeply uphill, with plant life changing at different elevations.

Then we came to the cholla cactus garden – they sure must like this elevation!  They are sometimes referred to as jumping cactus.  The branches are jointed and the outer joints very easily catch on any passing person or animal.  Must be beautiful when they are all blooming (red).

These joints also sometime detach and in favorable conditions form the start of a new plant.

Next stop is at White Tanks Campground where we find the trailhead to Arch Rock.  We follow the trail through huge boulders, narrow passes, overhangs, etc.  till we reach Arch Rock. 

Then we clamber around to to see the other side of the arch – not so spectacular but the climbing was fun.  Beginning to see a few Joshua Trees.

From here we head out to Cap Rock nature trail, a quick loop, and then to Keys View, the highest point in the Park. Lots of Joshua trees at Cap Rock.

It has been extremely windy today and out at Keys View we have to fight to stand upright! 

The wind is cold too, so we do a quick photo and head back to the Trek for some lunch.  Funny to watch people arrive, go up the trail for the view and hurry or even run back to their vehicles! Okay, I admit, I ran.

We go a little further north to Hidden Valley Campground, where we snag a site and pay our fee.  The campground is nearly full and most of the folks seem to be Californians. 

This is near Baker Dam, which is one of few places with water in the park.  Originally built by cowboys for an area to water their cattle, it still holds water during much of the year.   There were quite a few people hiking the trail, so we weren’t surprised that we didn’t see any wildlife, save a few birds. 

Back to camp, we watched a few people rock climbing – both free-style and with equipment. 

Apparently this is a good park for this activity!  We had dinner and read.  I have finished  the Wallace Stegner book  Crossing to Safety– I really like his work.  Greg finished his Eisenhower book.  I am now  reading Eric Larson’s book about the sinking of the Luisitania.  Greg is taking a break from history, reading something about exercising and life style called Younger Next Year.   Sunset and dinner.

January 24, Quartzite

Sunday, January 24

Went to the local McDonald’s this morning for coffee, sandwiches and to charge up the computer.  As in many small towns, McDonald’s is quite a social meeting place at breakfast time. 

We then head to the RV show at The Big Tent. 

The tent actually has about a hundred venders, all selling things related to RVs.   There are many clubs and organizations that set-up trips and caravans.  We looked briefly at a few that do overseas RV trips but they are pretty pricey - $8K each for 3 weeks in Greece, for example (not including air fare!).  Various people offer solar panels, back-up cameras, cleaning equipment, bedding, cooking utensils, flagpoles, clothing, etc. 

We peeked in a few of the fifth-wheels and motorhomes outside.  Some are quite luxurious!  Wouldn’t be bad to live in, but a real pain to travel with! 

Went across the street to another “show” going on, a collection of vendors with gems and rocks, metal artwork, clothes, Indian art, you name it and it was probably there somewhere. 

Shared an ice-cream .  We had talked to a National Parks ranger who recommended going to see Palm Canyon, which is in the Kofa National Wildlife Reserve, about 15 miles south, so we set out to do that.

The Canyon is about 8 miles back a dirt road through scrubby desert.  Cold and windy, but we bundle up and walk on.  This is part of the Sonora Desert.  A surprising number of hikers for such a remote area!  Rocky, hilly, windy trail till we get sight of the palms. They are tucked into a steep canyon above us, though there are a few here and there in the area as well.

Only site of Arizona fan palms.  Greg continues up the trail a bit to try to get closer, but has to turn back.

We bounce back out the road which has a dozen or so campers along the way.

Heading back to Quartzite, we decide to see if we can watch some of the football playoff games.  After a few phone calls, we head to Silly Al’s Pizza and manage to snag two seats with pretty good views of the game.  

Denver is ahead late in the first half when we sit down.  Pretty big crowd, most but not all cheering for Denver.  We sit next to a man who is from Boulder, CO.  Enjoy some very good pizza as Denver seals the win.  Lots arriving for the next game as we leave and look for a spot to spend tonight,  back to the open desert.

Quartzite, Jan 23

Saturday, January 23

We leave La Paz County Park and continue towards Quartzite.  We stop for a moment at this tiny chapel, which simply says “Enter, Rest, Pray.”  Nice idea on someone’s part!

We pass small homes, a few businesses in Salome, including this place which sold all sorts of metal art, which seems popular in the southwest.

Further along we pass the tiny town of Hope, AZ and instead of sign saying “Leaving Hope” or “Come Back Soon”, they have a sign which says “You Are Now Beyond Hope”.

We arrive at Quartzite about 9:15 and head for Hi Jolly BLM land where we heard there were a group of Roadtrekers.  Unfortunately, we find that they left 2 days ago so we go look around town.  There are RVers everywhere and the desert outside of town has hundreds of campers.  We look around main street till we find a program and some information on Quartzite, then decide to go to the Pow-Wow Gem & Mineral Show.   It is similar to the shows we have gone to in Tucson – actually some of these folks will head that way next week.  This show has a lot more agate, jasper, fire opal and other local rocks/stones and fewer cut and polished actual gemstones.  Lots of fossils, rough stones, stone cutting and polishing equipment, jewelry, etc. Lots of other vendors in town as well.

We camp out on the fringes of the already assembled campers. 

  Go for a walk out on the desert and find a few rocks for the collection.  Greg cooks hamburgers on the grill for dinner and we enjoy a quiet night and gorgeous sunset.

Phoenix and west

Friday, January 22, 2016

41 degrees this morning with a beautiful sunrise as we rise and shine as well.  We drive a few blocks to a McDonalds for coffee – didn’t want to run the generator to make our own since we had so many “neighbors”.   No golden arches here, but a giant Ronald McDonald instead! 

This is obviously a meeting place for the local seniors as there more than 20 of them enjoying breakfast and visiting.We got a kick out of the front page of the local paper.

We decide to take care of a few chores this morning, so use our I-phone to locate a Jiffy Lube for an oil change.  Nice folks, they also fill our water tank for us., clean windows, check tires, vacuum, etc.  Next, we find a U-Haul spot that has propane and get that tank filled.

We have read about the Heard Museum, and make that our next stop.  It is filled with information and art of the Southwest Indian tribes, as well as some local artists.

We learn about the dozen or so different tribes, a little about their history and their status today.  There is quite an exhibit about the Indian Boarding Schools, where for 6 generations, indian children were taken from their homes and sent to schools as far away as Carlisle, PA. 

The intent was to “Americanize” them, cutting their hair, giving them American clothing and names, etc.  so that they would fit in and be productive citizens. There are many individuals' stories – some very sad and harsh, others positive with happy endings.

There was a large exhibit of work by Mexican artist Frida Kahco and husband Diego Rivera, some paintings but mainly photographs.

There were also exhibits of works of three generations of local women – Pablito, Helen and Margarete, who apparently had artistic genes.  Pablito did painting, 

Helen did painting as well but was particularly noted for beautiful copper etchings,  

and the granddaughter Margarete is also an artisit.

The “Home” portion of the museum features Indian artifacts and art, mostly from the US, but also from around the world.   Basketry, weaving, stunning pottery, statues, clothing, jewelry, and more.  A display of over 400  Katchina Dolls. originally owned by Barry Goldwater, was most impressive!

A sculpture garden and several interactive areas for children completed our tour.

After this, we decided a little workout would be good and found another LA Fitness which was almost identical to the one at home.  Very busy for 1:30 in the afternoon!

Showered and relaxed and decided to find some good food for dinner.  We headed back to 10 and west of town, stopping at Don Pancho’s in the town of Avondale for some authentic Mexican food. 

Back on I-10 for a bit, and then we took a side road to Salome’s Centennial Park to spend the night.  We arrived just as the sun was setting.  Read, relaxed and called it a night.We noted one man with a dog and a shovel heading into the desert - this is a rockhounding area, so we assume that is what he is doing, not killing and burying the dog! Most of the people camping here are long-term.  Many of the RV Parks in the area charge something like $150/month and many folks from Wisconsin, Montana, Canada, etc. come here for a few months in the winter.  Some have community centers and offer classes or dances, etc.  Others, like this one, are pretty basic.   Exceedingly quiet!