November 18, 2013 Big Bend

November 18

Cell phone coverage is almost nonexistent, though we have found it at two odd places along the roadway.  The lodge and the store at Rio Grande Campground have wi-fi, but not phone service.

It is 52 degrees at 7:30 this morning.  We stop by the visitor's center to clean up with their hot water facilities, then head for the Ross Maxwell Scenic Highway, which goes from the Chisos Mountains down to the Santa Elena Canyon.  We stop at the Sam Nail Ranch, another abandoned homestead with windmill, a few building remnants and pecan trees which are a brilliant yellow.

We arrive at Santa Elena Canyon Trail about 9:30AM and hike into the canyon, climbing and then descending to the water.  It is very quiet and we are the only people around until we pass a threesome as we are leaving.  The canyon walls tower above the emerald Rio Grande, at times reflecting the fluffy white cotton ball clouds.  A geologist's dream, we can only comment on interesting rocks, faults, and boulders.

We make several stops on the return trip.  Durgan-Sublett House shows the amazing 12" thick walls with stone on the exterior and adobe inside.  Coyote tracks nearby.

Next stop is Castalon Visitors' Center and we reminisce about visiting there 30 years ago with a 3-year-old Bryan.  Orange Crush treat from the tiny store to accompany our sandwich lunch.  Tuff Canyon overlook showcases a deep canyon through white lava rock.

Mule Ears Overlook is self explanatory.

We hike about 2 miles through the desert on the Chimneys Trail before deciding it isn't worth it and instead continue to the Burro Mesa Pouroff, recommended by the ranger at Castalon.  This trail has some interesting rock formations that lead to a huge bore in a cliff which is where all the water from the area drains.  It is dry now, but there are signs throughout the park warning about flash floods and it seems that especially in Summer they get some real "gully-washers".

See several deer - the Carmen White Tails - along the highway.

We go to the lodge for dinner, as we did 30 years ago, and Greg has a burger and fries, as we did 30 years ago!  There are several cabins and a motel nearby, so quite a few diners.

There is a Texas Outdoor Woman's Network group camping at our campground - the Austin Chapter - and Greg finagles a look at one of their Casita RV's, which he pronounces very well-designed.