May 24, Deborah eagles, Bily Clocks, Barn quilts

Saturday, May 24

Beautiful morning with lots of birdsong.  It was light till almost 9:00 last night and we slept through sunrise, though it was bright at 6:00.  Saw a deer on the way back to civilization.  Passed a dairy with a big “Got Milk?” sign on the barn.

7:08 we are back at the fish hatchery and the adult eagles are hanging out in a big maple tree. 

Not much happening in the nest.  We watch for a while and one adult does visit the nest.  About half an hour later the adults fly off and one returns with a fish which it takes to the nest.  We talk with a few folks locals who are running  or biking on the trail nearby, and a few who are there specifically to see the eagles.

Adult returning to nest with a fish

Enjoyed watching these two building a nest too.

We have breakfast at the picnic spot and then head to Spillville.

The Bily brothers,  Joe and Frank, were farmers in the area who loved to do wood carving.  During the long winters, Joe designed clocks and Frank did the carving.

Their works were large and quite elaborate, often with music and moving parts such as the parade of apostles, cuckoo birds, a bride and groom who moved through a church, and many others.  With a fifth grade education, they resorted to many books for ideas and designs.  Woods included butternut, hickory, holly and some exotic woods they ordered.  They also ordered the actual clock works, mostly from Seth Thomas. Hard to appreciate the detail in these photos, but they didn't want photos taken so I just snuck these.

American Pioneer is 2nd from left

One clock is totally made of wood – even the gears were carved from wood. The masterpiece is a 9’ 10" tall  clock called the American Pioneer which features 57 separate panels depicting early pioneer life.  Supposedly Henry Ford offered them a million dollars for this piece, which they turned down because “what would WE do with a million dollars?”  The brothers also collected over 100 clocks. They planned to leave the works to their younger sister but she died so they left them to the city of Spillville.

In the same building there are two rooms upstairs dedicated to the composer Antonin Dvorak who spent three months in this house with his family.  He loved the Czech community here and wrote several pieces of music while here.  We got to listen to a little bit while we toured.

From here we headed back towards Wisconsin .  Greg notes that Iowa drivers on the back roads pass regardless of lines on the road.

We stopped at the library in Prairie du Chien but it closed at 1:00 so we only had half an hour or so to do some blogging and catch up on emails.

Lots of dairies and cattle among the fields here and the barn quilt trend continues.

A collection of wind turbines near Monfort – about 20, which is largest in the state. Tiny compared to many we've seen elsewhere.

We arrive at the Alp and Dell Cheese Factory in Monroe about 4:00 and purchase some cheese curds.   There are hundreds of cheese stores in the state and they make all kinds.  One place even makes Limburger.  The cheese curd are fresh chunks of cheese that are packaged and sold before the rest of the cheese is formed into wheels or bars or whatever. We have some cheddar and some brick. They must be fresh because they squeak when we chew them - that's the test, we've been told. Very tasty.

Others have told us we must try them fried - a delicacy yet to be experienced.

We go to the town square and walk a bit.  Some interesting shops and restaurants and quite a few people out.   Beautiful court house and lots of statues.  Someone explained later that they have a big cheese festival every other year (in September) with a theme, and the statues are from previous celebrations.  There is also a statue of an 18-year old local civil war soldier killed in the last battle of the civil war.

We have noticed many graduation parties going on today.  Lots and lots of lilacs  - hedges of them,  some along country roads and many in people’s yards. Lovely and fragrant.

May 23, Friday

Slept in this morning and had a leisurely walk to the overlook , to a small waterfalls and around the park.   The river is smooth this morning.  Lots of sounds of trains as some are below us under the bluff and some further across the water.

 

Added eggs to our Irish Shantie leftovers for some awesome breakfast tacos.   Took showers again and filled the fresh water tanks, then headed inland for some adventures.  

Scratch ‘n’ Sniff of the day:  Smoke from some farmer’s fire.

First stop was in Festiva to see what is billed as the world’s smallest church.  It is a chapel built to honor St. Anthony of Padua.  Built to honor a promise made by a woman whose son was conscripted into Napoleon’s army and survived.  It is 8 x 12, holds 8 people in 4 small pews.  Originally built of logs in 1849, it was improved to stone in 1885.

We are seeing more evergreens, although most are planted around farms as wind breaks.  Passing towns like St. Olaf,  Gunder, Osterdock.

Next stop is the Vesterheim (Western Home) Norwegian Museum in  Decorah . They have a huge collection of Norwegian and Norwegian American artifacts and history.

The story of Norway and emigration (due largely to overpopulation and the potato famine).  Between 1825 and 1930 over 800,000 peopple left – a number equal to the total population in 1825!  Many emigrants brought household goods, tools, jewelry and other things from Norway and there is a large collection of mainly wooden items, clothing, furniture.

The Norwegians did a lot of painting and carving to decorate their wooden products.  The brightly painted chests and cabinets with rosemaling (type of painting) were typical and were disdained by some  non-Norwegians as “too primitive or poor”.  There is a full size sailboat built by 2 brothers  who crossed the Atlantic in it!

There were at least 6500 Union Soldiers born in Norway, 300 Confederates.

Tatting, cross stitch and cut work, both old and new on display.  Then we joined part of a tour of assorted outbuildings, including the house which was dismantled and shipped from Norway.  Note the beautiful slate roof which looks like fish scales.

Next we go to the Decorah Fish Hatchery where there are a nice waterfalls and park in addition to the production ponds.  A local attraction is an Eagle’s nest which a webcam is attached to.  Apparently people all over the world have watched the three chicks developing and the locals are very proud of it.  We had lunch at a picnic table here and talked with a DNR man who told us a lot about the eagles.  We decided to come back in morning when, he says, they are more active.  Google Decorah Eagles to see the live feed.

We stop by Dunning’s Spring Park which the folks from Cedar Falls had recommended.  Pretty falls and good exercise climbing to an overlook.

Down the road is an Ice Cave which we hike up to.  Not much to see but definite cold air coming from it and Greg squeezed in a bit.  Could see ice on the floor – not a place you’d want to fall.

We boondocked at Trout River Wildlife Area, as the ranger at the Fish Hatchery told us we can camp on any State Property for free any time.  He gave us directions and we ended up almost across from an RV Park.  But we were the only folks here and it was very pleasant.  The path nearby didn’t go far before being blocked by a stream which we would have had difficulty crossing.  Lots of birdsong, few bugs!

May 22, 2014 Pikes Peak IOWA, Prairie du Chien

May 22, 2014

Nice morning, 54 degrees and sunny.

We have come a bit “inland”, so start back towards the Mississippi and Guttenberg, taking small roads.  We see a sign for Fountain Springs Park and decide to stop and have breakfast.  (Since Beth has a medication to take which requires at least ½ hr before eating, we usually have some kind of activity before breakfast.)

A few miles down dirt roads and we reach a pull out area.  There is a gate there that says the road, such as it is, is closed due to flooding.  We continue on foot and can see why the road is closed, as the stream has eroded part of the road.  There is also a large tree across the road further on. 

Interesting thistle

gold finch - state bird of Iowa

There are lots of birds in the area and we catch sight of what we later learn are Orioles – beautiful orange, as well as yellow birds we find are gold finches – the Iowa state bird.  They are noted for flying erratically and indeed never seem to go in a straight line!

As we are returning to the Trek, a DNR – department of natural resources – guy comes by in a pick-up truck.  We ask a few questions and this guy is a veritable fountain of information.  He is out this morning stocking trout streams and we learn about fishing, area hatcheries, eagles, and a few good places to eat.  He talks about loving this area of Iowa which is part of the “Driftless Area” – a triangular area of Iowa and Wisconsin that was not smoothed by glacier activity, so remains hilly and craggy and heavily wooded.  A far cry from the flat cornfields most people associate with Iowa. He disappears for a while while we have breakfast of cereal and blueberries and then he is back. 

He shows us some of the fish he is stocking – beautiful rainbow trout and brook trout about a year and half old, 12 “ or so. Meanwhile, a few fishermen have showed up and the one we can see seems to be pulling out those stocked fish pretty quickly.  There is a 5 fish limit, which he reaches in probably 30 minutes.

rainbow trout

brook trout

trout fisherman

As we are leaving, we stop to watch orioles and one of the fishermen we had said hi to earlier pulls along side us and we have a nice conversation through the vehicle windows.  He is a grounds-keeper for several companies, loves fishing and talks about various people he has fished with – one a guy named Bert who is on oxygen.  One day Bert disappeared  “Where’s Bert?” and they expected to find him in the stream somewhere, only to discover he went down the road a piece with some other fishermen.   Stream of consciousness conversation J.   He has relatives in Texas .  He says he’ll be back tomorrow morning at 6:30 for five more fish and finally drives off.

We pass a sign at Colesburg that says “Welcome to Hill Country”.

We arrive in Guttenburg to find a train blocking the main street.  A local man tells us there has been an accident and tells us how to get around the train.  Guttenburg is right on the river and we stop at a River Fisheries Management Station which has some aquariums of local fish.  No people around. 

The Welcome center next door is open and we chat briefly with the folks there.  They confirm that the river has crested and is going down now.  We drive a short distance over to Lock and Dam #10 and take a look.  Nice little town.

We turn down a country road toward the river and again find a road closed due to flooding.  We walk in a ways .  Interesting reflections among the trees that are now surrounded by water.  Water bugs, ducks, etc.  From what we have read, this backwater is crucial to some wildlife and the life of the river.

We head north, through terraced fields and cattle.  Beginning to see more dairy farms.  Greg comments that there are a lot of American flags on display in this area.

 Scratch 'n' Sniff of the day:  Iowa Beef - and I don't mean steak, if you get my drift...

Reminder of other seasons...

We reach Pikes Peak State Park, a lovely park on high bluffs above the Mississippi.  Named for Zebulon Pike, like the Colorado Peak, as he came this way and selected this site for a fort in 1805.   The Park is 500 feet above the river and looks across to the confluence with the Wisconsin River.   The river is “braided” at this point, dividing into several channels.  We watch a barge make its way toward Marquette.

We watch hummingbirds at feeders here and are surprised to see Orioles occasionally raiding the hummingbird feeders. 

Talk with some folks from Cedar Rapids who are camping here and we decide this might be a good place to spend the night.  We register, shower and do some housekeeping. While in the shower Greg meets a guy who is WALKING the Great River Road.  He has 700 miles to go and figures it will take another month.  When asked why he was doing it, he said because he is interested and able!

We take a  little drive across the river, through McGregor, past Lady Luck Casino with its Pink Elephant, to Prairie du Chien. 

  This is famous for the site of the annual Rendezvous where fur traders, Indians and others came to trade and socialize.  

Then  we head west to Gunder for a Gunderburger dinner.  This was recommended by the DNR fish man, and seconded by the Prairie du Chien welcome center person.

We find the Irish Shantie in Gunder and chat with a man who is wearing their T-shirt and about to leave.  Turns out he is the owner!    The Gunderburger is huge, so Greg and I share one.  We also have American Fries, which are sliced potatoes grilled with onions and cheese.  Very good flavor and so much that we save some of the burger and potatoes for tomorrow's breakfast.  There are only 2 others there when we arrive, but by the time we leave there are 16 others - only a few "youngsters" our age or younger :)

Back to the Trek, Pikes Peak and a pleasant evening.