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Sunday, December 29, 2013

DEC 27, 2013 POST-CHRISTMAS TEXAS COAST

Texas Coast Christmas 2013

12/27/13
After a fun Christmas with our sons, they headed back to their places and we packed the Trek. 
Left about 9:15 AM, 49 degrees, and headed down 288 toward the coast.  After we got out of the Houston area, past Alvin and southeast we began to see a few hawks, geese and a field of sandhill cranes. There are many fields used for growing rice and corn in this area, which attracts lots of birds.

 First stop was Brazosport Natural History Museum, next to the campus of Brazosport College in Clute (or Lake Jackson, there is some debate).  Named one of the ten best museums in Texas by Frommer’s Travel Guide, it was well worth the stop.  Most of the museum is dedicated to shells and the collection is immense, from all parts of the world.  Such beauty and variety in nature!








There were also interesting fossils, minerals and carvings, a huge butterfly collection and local archeological finds.  Many items were part of donated collections.  We had an interesting discussion with the man in charge, who is a shell collector and he passed along some information on Texas beaches, along with a handy map.

From here we headed further south and east to San Bernard National Wildlife Refuge on the coast.Saw thousands of geese here, along with red-tailed and white-tailed hawks, the ever-present turkey vultures and black vultures, coots (black & white ducks), doves, cardinals and other unidentified birds.   Along one trail we spotted an alligator (about 6’ long) who was about 10 feet away, down a small hill and up to his eyes in water.  We watched him and took a few photos till he raised himself up and gave a nasty hiss.  We got the message and quickly moved on!

  
Geese coming in for a landing….
Unfriendly gator.
Lovely trails with spanish moss.

On the way out of the refuge, two beautiful bobcats crossed the road ahead of us and disappeared into the brush.  Couldn’t get to the camera fast enough!

Next we headed down the coast to Matagorda Peninsula which is more like a barrier island. (Actually, Matagorda Island is a bit further south.)  There is a bridge over the Intercoastal Waterway which was quite busy with barges and such.  We arrived at  Matagorda Bay Nature Park about 4:30 and camped near their fishing pier and picnic area.  We walked out the pier , onto the jetty and back before firing up the generator and heating up some brisket and beans left from Christmas eve dinner.


Rough surf at Matagorda Nature Park.

Beautiful sunset.

Next morning we bundled up a bit (46 degrees and windy) and walked the beach.  There was quite a variety of shells, star fish and driftwood as well as some beautiful primroses, sea oats and grasses on the dunes.  I couldn’t resist collecting some shells.





long-beaked curlew.
Had breakfast and then headed south to Port Lavaca, a fairly sizable town, and then on to Aransas National Wildlife Refuge, through several tiny towns like Tivoli, Palacios and Austwell – barely more than a blink.

We had been to this refuge a few times before but usually just did the auto trail.  Today we tried the Heron Flats trail, Birding Trail and a few others.  Not a lot of animal activity, but it turned out to be a nice day with some sunshine and temps hit 62. Many people come here to see the Whooping Cranes. Texas has the largest population of wintering cranes of any of the states.  The population was down to 15 back in the 1940’s but has rebounded nicely up to 250.  We saw many great herons, which are almost as tall as whoopers (46” vs 52”), snow geese, white pelicans, curlews and other shore birds. But no whoopers L Saw a few deer, no javelina or gators, which we have seen in the past.  This refuge is very popular with birders and we did see many of them, binoculars and huge camera lenses in hand.


Great blue heron.
White tail deer.


Turkey vultures.


From here we continued south to Goose Island State Park, near the quaint town of Rockport.  We splurged on electric hook-ups, had a nice campfire and enjoyed a star-filled sky. Nice neighbors, couple new to camping, offered home-made clam chowder but we, unfortunately perhaps, had already eaten. We went to bed anticipating a steamy shower in the morning!
                                 Campground at Goose Island State Park.
12/29/13
Great hot shower in the morning and then we explored the park a bit. Lots of birds, including a roseate spoonbill and several egrets.


 There was a long fishing pier and several fishermen.  You could see many sizable sheepshead and occasional schools of other fish from the pier.  Several pelicans, both the larger white ones and brown ones were near the boat launch.



 Sheepshead
 Pelican

After leaving Goose Island, we joined several folks using computers at a McDonald's in Rockport and did some blogging while having lunch.  We continued south, through Corpus Christi and out to North Padre Island National Seashore.  After visiting the welcome center, we drove a few miles on the beach, and then headed to the campground at Malaquite Beach.

We walked the beach which had many birds, mostly willets, and very few shells.  Also several groups of sanderlings - those tiny hyperactive birds that run into and out of the surf.
 "Bully" willet kept chasing this one.


 George, quite photogenic heron. Stands about 40" tall.
Another heron on the dunes.

There were a couple of fishermen in waders, and one looked somewhat familiar because he had a great heron standing watch by him.  Turns out he is the same fisherman we saw several years ago on New Year's Eve (74 and going strong).  There was a heron with him then too, named George.  He said this was George, although a ranger confided later that there are "several Georges".

It was very windy and sprinkling a bit, so we tucked in, had dinner and read.  Greg was finishing a book on Genghis Khan and I was finishing "The Goldfinch".  Took a break and walked down to the beach in the dark - the surf thundered and a sprinkling of stars lit the night.



 12/30/13
 Next morning we went on a birding tour with a guide named Karen who volunteers here with husband Tom during Winter.  They are from Wisconsin.  She drove us to several different spots with marshes and ponds, and even onto the beach.  Very knowledgeable and we saw at least 20 different kinds of birds! Most were ducks(redheads, teals, shovelers…)and other water birds, but we did see Harrier and White Tail Hawks, a Caracara, Kildeer and some beautiful small yellow warblers.

reddish egret
crested caracara

After the tour, we headed further south, through Harlingen, to Port Isabel and South Padre Island. The rain that began this morning gathered momentum and continued through the night.  We decided it probably wouldn't be good to camp on the beach, so joined a few other campers at the Walmart in Port Isabel.  Bought a roasted chicken and some potato salad for dinner, and spent another evening talking and reading.

12/31/2013

Woke to a cold, windy day with on and off sprinkles of rain.  Not ideal for doing things outdoors.  We decided to tour the lighthouse, keeper's house and a few small museums and since they didn't open till 9:00 and 10:00, we looked for a spot for a leisurely breakfast. We stayed in Port Isabel rather than crossing the causeway to Padre Island (fancier, more touristy) and found a place that looked very busy.     Cash only, locals,  packed, good food and good prices! 




Next we tried to tour the lighthouse, but it was closed due to the weather - I guess they don't want anyone blowing off the top!  The keeper's house was open and gave some interesting history - built in 1840's, captured and re-captured during the civil war.  Don't think too much of this area when you read about the civil war but there was quite a bit of activity.  The final battle of the civil war was just west of here (Palo Alto) - after the Confederacy surrendered.


Port Isabel esplanade.

We've seen towns with painted bears, horses, groundhogs, cows - and now dolphins!

The museums featured a lot of information about the history of the area and famous local shipwrecks, mostly Spanish in the 1500-1700s.  There was also an interesting history channel film about treasure hunting.
 early nautical accessories including hour glass
pieces of eight

When we finished, it was still raining and the forecast looked pretty bleak - 40's and more rain - so we decided to cut things short and head for home.  At this point we were very near Brownsville (US) and Matamoros (Mexico) but not interested in going to Mexico with all the recent violent activity there.  There are quite a few parks and preserves in "the valley", a World Birding Center, citrus orchards, etc. but we decided to leave them for another trip.   We headed for home ( buoyed by a lot of CD's)  by a more direct route and arrived safely about 7 hours later.  The rain stopped about 2/3 of the way home but it looks like it will catch up with us in a day or two.

Happy New Year!!